The flan pâtissier is often celebrated as the ultimate custard tart, but who truly creates the best version? We had the pleasure of speaking with Felicity Cloake, our resident perfectionist, to delve into the world of flans and discover the top recipe out there.
It’s important to clarify that flan isn’t the same as the cheese-and-tomato traybakes commonly found in British school lunches or the Latin American crème caramel. Instead, it refers to those stunning custard tarts that proudly display themselves in countless French bakeries.
Cloake opened up about her newfound passion for flans, emphasizing her admiration for their straightforwardness and the hearty, starch-thickened filling. “It’s a far cry from the more delicate, nutmeg-spiced British custard tart,” she points out, noting there’s something wonderfully indulgent about a slice that is essentially solid custard.
In the flan universe, you’ll find a variety of names. Sometimes called flan pâtissier, flan parisien, or even far breton—typically a fruit-filled version—Pastry Chef David Lebovitz advises, “With so many name variations and baking methods, I just order it by whichever name they prefer. Rule #1: Never argue with someone serving you food.”
Interestingly, Cloake emphasizes Rule #2: although flan may not be the most extravagant dessert in a pastry shop, it often leaves a memorable impact that lingers long after your visit.
For those who dread rolling out dough or navigating gluten allergies, there’s good news—flan can be made without a pastry crust. “Master patissier Christophe Michalak recommends that a crustless flan is lighter and easier to digest,” Cloake explains. However, she concedes that skipping the pastry means missing out on that delightful contrast between a crunchy crust and a soft filling.
Of course, pre-made pastry is an option for those short on time, but Cloake warns against using puff pastry. She believes it leads to a less satisfying texture because the custard requires plenty of time to cool before serving, which can result in a soggier crust.
Cloake shared her experiences trying out different recipes and recalled a particular savory shortcrust from Edd Kimber. “This recipe, using water instead of egg to hydrate, gives an incredibly crunchy texture,” she remarked. While opinions vary on blind baking, she prefers her flan with a well-cooked, golden pastry that stands up well against the custard.
Now, let’s talk about the star of the dish: the custard. The secret lies in using a crème pâtissière, thickened with both eggs and starch to create a balance between the delicate crème anglaise and a richer custard. “Flan needs a sturdy filling that can hold its own, especially when sliced,” Cloake shares.
Cloake has explored different cream-to-milk ratios, noting that while richer flans are delicious, visual presentation also matters. “No one wants a skinny slice; you should aim for a substantial wedge of flan,” she asserts.
In her quest for the ideal custard, Cloake opted against butter enrichment, choosing double cream instead. She explained her preference for cornflour as the thickener, as it’s gluten-free and emphasized the importance of cooking the custard just right—about 30 seconds after it reaches a simmer.
Flavor also plays a crucial role. While vanilla is the classic choice, often infused into the dairy, Cloake encourages adventurous variations. “You can always explore different flavors, whether that’s lemon or chocolate,” she suggests.
Finally, she offers baking tips for flan. A deep mold is recommended for this creamy treat, and she advises against using a loose-bottomed tin because of the liquid filling. After preparing the pastry and custard, she walks us through the baking process, stressing the importance of patience and precision for the best outcome.
In conclusion, whether you enjoy your flan the traditional way or prefer a creative twist, it’s evident that this classic French pastry deserves its time in the limelight. So, what’s your perspective on flan—do you lean towards the classic, or are you excited to try new flavors and textures? And which bakery do you think serves the most remarkable version?
